Aluminum Panels

    Tips

    • Gloves: Be sure to wear them when working with metal shards and bond/sealer!
    • Every panel will need some amount of filing/shaping, even if they are laser cut. The welds vary frame to frame and will need to be worked around.
    • Use a long (12") drill bit for tight spots.
    • Leave out side rivets until "U-shaped brackets" are installed with "Engine Bay Lower Bulkhead (Double Skin Option)".
    • Cockpit Front Bulkhead: Leave out rivets on top until fitting body back on
    • Radiator, Rack and Main Floor Panels: If you had the body pre-fit, be sure to drill out the holes from the sidepods screws.
    • Engine Bay Lower Bulkhead (Double Skin Option): Leave out rivets on top until fitting body panel on.

    Pedals

    Tips

    • The pedal pads need to be bent/formed to match the pedal shape. Depending on the length of your pedals, the screws might fit in the top and bottom holes (mine did not).
    • If you're tall (e.g. 6' or taller), you might want to remove the lock nut, spin the pedals on all the way and then add the lock nut on the back. I am 6'3" and had to do this to gain another inch or so.
    • Immediately cover the holes you will not use with tape so you don't accidentally work on them.
    • Brake switch is installed in FRONT of the pedal. The wiring loom will need to be connected before installing.
    • Clutch switch (optional) is installed BEHIND the pedal. The engine harness will need to be connected before installing.

    Ancillaries

    Tips

    • The manual PDFs are very good. Study them before starting. The placement of the p-clips and wires/hoses is very important.
    • Be careful when studying the PDFs and photos. There are big differences in LHD vs RHD.
    • If you're installing the Front Lift Kit (optional), install the pump before screwing in the battery clamp. This avoids having to remove the battery later, plus it's much easier before the steering rack is installed. The hoses for the lift and different lengths and there's not much slack so be sure the pump is in a location where both hoses can reach.
    • Lay out the wiring loom per the diagram and make sure all branches are split properly. My right side mirror wires were grouped with many of the dash wires and I had to split them.
    • The wiring loom should be mounted along the outside of the frame when routing along the side of the car (not inside the triangles).
    • Debur the frame's suspension bolt holes before installing the radiator and coolant pipes, otherwise some spots will be cramped later. 
    • If you're installing an LT heat exchanger, be sure to apply thread sealer when screwing in the fittings. The parts are aluminum-to-aluminum and can bind very easily and destroy the threads. If you have a M22 x 1.5 pitch tap, considering verifying the threads are good first.
    • There's a 1/4" steam pipe that comes with the radiator parts. It's not need for LT engines.
    • Consider wrapping your coolant pipes to reduce potential cabin heat. Some options are Fiberglass Fire Sleeves, DEI products and Header Wrap.
    • Luggage Containers:
      - Create cardboard templates when determining where to cut luggage containers. 
      - When fitting, insert them top in first and then rotate to get the bottom in.
      - The tabs will need to be trimmed/filed/bent to fit.
      - The underbody aluminum piece that connects the container to the frame can be riveted in now or later with the sidepods (sandwich pieces).

    Heater & A/C

    Tips

    • Route the heater cable before installing the AC/Heater unit. It's much easier.
    • The vents notch into their outside casing. Be sure you have them lined up correctly before cutting the 45 degree.

    Handbrake

    Tips

    • Install gear shifter first otherwise you'll have to remove the handbrake later when installing it.
    • Use a hollow punch tool to make perfect holes in the firewall grommets

    Gear Shift

    Tips

    • The carbon fiber cover (optional) is smaller where the back piece covers the shifter plate. You'll need to file down the plate a bit for the cover to fit.

    Steering

    Tips

    • When installing the 4 nuts for the steering rack, I folded tape and stuck it between my finger and the nut in order to maneuver it onto the bolt.
    • The bushes are pretty easy to install with a bolt, 2 washers and a nut. Be sure to line up the circular bumps with the holes.
    • The steering column will need A LOT of sanding. While Ultima and Nigel recommend 400 grit, I initially used 120 and then 300 & 400 to make sure it was very smooth. It took me a good 45 min of sanding...not kidding. A wire brush works well on the splines.
    • When connecting the various pieces, completely remove the bolts from the joints and the parts will slide on much easier. This step works much better with 2 people.

    Suspension

    Tips

    • I hope you already deburred the mounting holes and installed the lift kit pump as the area is a bit cramped now.
    • The suspension is very easy to install. The hardest part was getting the wishbones into the frame mounts. Some went in easy, some not so much. I used a rubber mallet to help.
    • The newer lift kit models don't have the "lock rings". This confused me until I emailed the factory and they informed me. 

    Brakes

    Tips

    • This is a very easy and fun step. Nigel's video is very good.
    • There handbrake mounting plates look very similar, but they are slightly different.