While my car was fully built and I have no more parts, there were several issues I had to address to truly complete the car.

Everyone will have a different experience...this was mine. Kit car life...

I should have addressed this earlier in the build, but I assumed I had a simple wiring issue I could resolve later.

After verifying the wiring was correct and I had good grounds, I tested fuses 13Q and 13X (back of panel) and both had power.

I then unplugged the pump (connection near the pump) and tested the pins...no power.

This told me that the pump controller has an issue (e.g. bad relay). I contacted Ultima they sent a new controller.

I plugged it in and it still didn't work. WTH? After closer inspection, one of the pins in the plug was seated too low.

I took apart the plug, reseated it properly, put it back together and it worked!

When I went to attempt the first start, the AIM computer started up, but fuel pressure read 0 psi. I also noticed I didn't hear the fuel pump kick on.

After verifying multiple wiring connections, I got to fuse 13R and confirmed 12V was coming out the back. This connects to Wiring Loom #85 (ECU Interface). I traced the wire to #85 which was fortunately easily accessible when I removed the stereo. I tested the wire...no power??? How is that possible? That wire goes from the fuse panel, through the harness trunk to the center of dash...a very short run with no risk of getting cut. I believe the wire was defective since this also happened to Ahmed (thanks, Ahmed, for pointing in this direction).

I temporarily used the radio loom wire since it was also key on power...it worked! Fuel pump turned on. ECU got power. I then ran a new wire from the fuse panel to #85.

All of the buttons on the Raptor worked except the fans. The fans did turn on automatically at 192 degrees, so I knew they were good.

I asked Ultima about it and after a little back and forth, it was determined the power wires weren't fully connected in the loom.

Easy fix: splice in the Raptor plug orange/black wire to either fan orange/black wire. I did that and it works now.

Every car/frame is slightly different and every fabricated part is slightly different.

On the LT4 (and LT5), you want to mount the muffler or x-pipe as far back on the frame as you can.

When you install the cats, there is a small margin for adjustment with the olives and clamps.

Unfortunately, the cats I received were too long and pushed the x-pipe back a 1/2".

This caused multiple issues:

1) The rubber bobbins were forced on a 45 degree angle and would certainly break one day.

2) The clearance for the remainder of the exhaust got too tight (was then touching frame)

3) The exhaust pushed back too far and opening/closing the rear clam interfered with the mesh.

I contacted Ultima and they were happy to fabricate new ones for me. 

I sent them measurements and 4 weeks later I had new, shorter ceramic coated cats that fit perfectly.

1. The left NACA duct was hitting the left cat. I had to remove the cat, clean out the copper gasket and reinstall it twisted down as far as it could go.

This gave me a 1/2" clearance between the cat and the body. I wanted to raise the back of the rear clam up, but unfortunately the trans mount bolt is already touching the bottom of the clam. I need to find a solution. I might change the bolt to one with a smaller head (e.g. from hex to round).

This one was the biggest pain! Huge thanks to Shaun for helping me diagnose it.

This took a few weeks to resolve as I kept getting new clues that pointed to new ideas to resolve coupled with wait time for new parts.

Per Ultima, the AIM 14-Pin Connector CAN Bus wires connect to the ECU Tan and Tan/Black wires, but unfortunately they told them to me backwards. I could not test this until the engine was in so I didn't find out until the car was basically done. After a few hours of testing wires and trying to figure it out, I swapped the two wires and everything finally worked. This was a pain as I had to remove the seats, un-ziptie the wiring harness under the dash, undo the loom wrap, locate the connections, re-solder them correctly and then redo all of the work I undone.

Ultima simply cut off the end of Channel 5 on the AIM 23-Pin Connector, extended only the white wire (with a green/black wire) and hid the other 2 wires in the heat shrink. This will never work. The fuel senders are sending ohms and the AIM cannot read resistance values...it needs voltage values. This is accomplished with a pull-up resistor. Visit the "Electrical" section to see how to resolve this. I wasted too much time believing what I was sent would work, and then finally realizing it won't and solving it with friends.

After fixing the "Steering Wheel Fans Button" issue above, I noticed only 1 fan would turn on. I tested all of the wires and grounds and saw no issues and then went back to basics...fuses. It turned out whoever built the fuse box put a fuse in the wrong slot. Once I moved the fuse up 1 slot, both fans immediately worked. Wasted maybe 2 hrs for a 10 sec fix. Lesson learned: Start with basics