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• I couldn't find "cellulous plastic primer" or "cellulous satin black top coat", so I applied multiple layers of "Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover Spray Paint (Paint + Primer) - Flat Black". Laser Sintered Nylon is porous so the goal is to seal the part to avoid air leaks. 
• Install the part before dropping in the engine. It's MUCH easier.
• Drill cold air intake hole with engine out and insert into position prior to engine installation and fuel tank filler hose installation.
• The Mass Air Flow Sensor installs with the small opening towards the incoming air.
• I decided to cut my carbon fiber tube in half. Why?
  1. It's very difficult to install as one piece. You need to make the hole oval shaped and much larger than the tube diameter.
  2. I cut it so the rubber coupling would sit in the wall cut. This is more preferable than carbon fiber sitting on fiberglass.
  3. If I ever needed to service this area, it will be easy to remove some or all of the pieces.

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• Easiest step of the build.

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• Do the Build Steps Apply to LT4?
  - Thermostat - Yes. I installed the Billet Specialties billet LT thermostat housing as the plastic GM version are known to break.  
  - Oil cooler - Yes (scroll up for links/photos)
  - Engine mounts - Yes (scroll down for links/photos)
  - Engine/gearbox adaptor kit - Yes (scroll down for links/photos)
  - Supercharger pressure sensor relocation - No
  - Evap solenoid - Yes (see link on left)
  - Oil pan take off adaptor - Yes - Drain oil first!
  - Accessory drive kit - Yes (see links on left)
  - Throttle body relocation - Yes
  - Wiring harness plug relocation - Yes - I did not relocate. It's simply hanging and does not interfere with anything. 
  - Analogue Instrument Oil Pressure sender - No with AIM
  
  

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• I did not order the Ultima mount plates or motor mounts. They were $730. Instead, I ordered the plates from Billet Specialties ($63) and the mounts from Summit Racing ($112). I saved a lot of money, but it required a couple hours of test fitting and grinding to get them to fit.
• For the LT4, it appears the back of the engine block extends 1-1/8" past the center brace.

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• You'll need to source the bolt (M8x1.25 x 30) and the 2 sealing washers.

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• I purchased my flywheel/adapter/clutch/starter setup from Kennedy Engineered Products. Ultima sources from them as well. They are incredibly knowledgeable in this space and create a top quality product. I am very impressed with what I received.
• Be sure to drain the oil first. There are multiple drain plugs. I only removed the lowest drain plug thinking it would remove all of the oil. I was wrong.
• Remove the GM flywheel/flexplate. You can use multiple breaker bars or purchase the ICT "Crank Holding Tool". This tool makes it super easy to remove and install the flywheels.
• You will need to remove the clutch from the full assembly in order to expose the 8 holes for the bolts. Be sure to Loctite and torque the bolts to spec. I used Loctite Blue.
• The adapter plate is an easy install. Again, be sure to Loctite and torque the bolts. You can install the starter and 2 dowels now too.

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• Wear rubber gloves when handling these parts.
• My photos show the clutch disc on the flywheel and then the clutch plates added after. This is NOT how I installed it. I combined all of the parts together and slid them on as one unit. This is much easier and safer to align properly.
• Be sure to tighten the bolts evenly! You need to slowly step up the torque in a star pattern. First hand tighten then all, then 1/2 turns of each bolt until the torque builds, then even torque step ups until you hit the specified torque setting.

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• I highly recommend at least 1 helper. Doing this alone is feasible, but tough work. Nigel makes everything look much easier than it really is.
• You must use Ultima supplied gearbox cable mount. The Porsche factory gearbox mount will put cables too far forward.
• Ensure the blue marked shifter cable is on the right when installing shift cables.
• Twist the trans outputs to get the spline to line up with the engine. You'll know it's lined up as it can slide forward a bit and you can't turn the outputs anymore. Keep inching it forward and hopefully it'll slide all the way up to the engine. I could only get around 1/2" (12-13mm) from the engine and we kept thinking something was wrong. After checking and retrying a few times, we all agreed we had to screw in the bolts and force it together. That worked.

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• Ultima doesn't supply the rubber washers, so you'll need to buy them yourself.
• Be sure to remove the locks on the ball joint connections before installing (and then reinstall them).

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• This is a straightforward (and a bit messy) step. Be sure to thread the screws by hand first. They can be a pain to get started, but as soon as you have 2 done, the rest go in very easy. I completed the wheel side first and then the trans side. The Ultima torque sheet lists the torque numbers.

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• Need to install...

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• Engine Harness (see photo)
  • 1-8: Connect to coil packs
  • 9. S/C Bypass: Connect front of engine
  • 10. Alt: Connect to alternator
  • 11. Evap: Not used
  • 12. Knock Sensor port: Not used (remove it)
  • 13. O2 Sensor: Connect to exhaust O2 sensor
  • 14. Knock Sensor: Connect low on block near back
  • 15. Crank Position: Connect low on block at the back
  • 16. Bank 2: Connect back of engine
  • 17. Vehicle Speed: ECU needs this.
  • 18. Bank 1: Connect back of engine
  • 19. MAP: Connect back of engine
  • 20. Ground to Cylinder Head: Choose a hole on head
  • 21. O2 Sensor: Connect to exhaust O2 sensor
  • 22. Knock Sensor: Connect low on block under heat shield
  • 23. I.C. Pump: Connect to pump on firewall
  • 24. CAM Position: Connect very low at very front
  • 25. Fuel Pressure: Connect to AIM #1
  • 26. Inlet Air Pressure: Connect behind throttle body/elbow
  • 27. MAS: Connect to hole in CAI tube
  • 28. Throttle Body: Connect to throttle body
  • 29. S/C Plug: Connect to plug below throttle body
• Wiring Loom (see photo)
  • 48. Interior Light: Not used
  • 60. LH Fuel Sender: Connect to LH tank
  • 59. Water Temp: Not used with AIM
  • 62. Oil Pressure: Not used with AIM
  • 63. Oil Temp: Not used with AIM
  • 68. Speedo Sender: Not used with AIM
  • 58. Alt: Connect to alternator (thick charge wire only)
  • 56. AC Comp Clutch: Connect to A/C compressor
  • 54. RH Fuel Sender: Connect to RH tank
  • Fuel Pump: Connect to driver's side tank pump wires
  • 51. RH Fuel Pump: Not used
  • AIM Wires
    • 1. Fuel Pressure: Connect to FP Sensor
    • 2. Oil Pressure: Connect to OP Sensor
    • 3. 2nd temp sensor: Connect to oil tank (optional)
    • 4. Water Temp: Connect to H-pipe
    • Spd: Connect to Speed Sensor